A wander through Doringbaai’s offbeat hikes, moonlit strolls and pedal-powered adventures.
By some accident of geography and divine benevolence, Doringbaai has escaped the usual trappings of the modern leisure destination—namely, other people. It’s not that people aren’t welcome, it’s just that they tend to come in ones and twos, stumbling into a dream in which the air smells faintly of kelp.
Should you find yourself here with nothing to do (which is sort of the point), you might be tempted to embark on the Doringbaai to Strandfontein trail. This 7.4-kilometre point-to-point hike is moderately challenging. Here, flowers riot in spring, accompanied by vertiginous views and the kind of solitude that feels almost illicit. It offers 212 metres of elevation gain and typically takes just shy of two hours, unless you stop to photograph every cormorant or squint repeatedly at the sea (which you will). Leashed dogs are welcome.
Top scenic highlights include Donkergat Bay (it sounds ominous, but no, you won’t be mugged by a seal) and Bamboesbaai, which is quite pretty.
FULL MOON WALKS
For those who prefer their exercise to come with an existential crisis wrapped in cosmic beauty, there are the Strandfontein Full Moon Walks led by the inimitable Tania Fouché. These start 90 minutes before sunset from the Strandfontein NSRI station and follow a 3-kilometre coastal cliff path northwards via Bloukrans, which, given the right footwear, is utterly splendid. You’ll then pause at Rooiduin: precisely the moment the sun plunges dramatically into the Atlantic and just as the moon ambles up on the other side like a shy party guest.
On the return leg southwards along the beach—by headlamp—you might encounter sea cucumbers, which are neither salads nor pickles but rather gelatinous marine creatures that look like something Douglas Adams might have dreamed up after three gins. They are, in fact, echinoderms, and despite appearing to do absolutely nothing, they’re very busy filtering sand. Tania charges nothing for these walks, definitely thanks to sheer enthusiasm. However, donations to SANCCOB or the local NSRI station are appreciated and would make you feel like a better person.
PEDAL POWER
If you’ve brought your bicycle, you may wish to attempt the Viswater Mountain Bike Route. This 30-km circular route takes you from Doringbaai to Papendorp and back again across terrain that includes single-track trails, open gravel roads and the kind of sandy bits that will make you re-evaluate your life choices. The route veers within 50 metres of the ocean at one point, which is thrilling—unless you’re battling a headwind, in which case it’s biblical.
The first half to Papendorp is invigorating and, dare we say, joyous. However, the return trip is when the wind picks up, your legs begin whispering threats, and the word “gravel” takes on new emotional depth. But fear not: salvation awaits at The Jetty Restaurant, where you can collapse and rehydrate with something grapey while watching the sun do its low, golden thing.
For a gentler cycle you can head out on the 16-km R362 road jaunt from Doringbaai to Papendorp. This tiny hamlet offers spectacular views of the Olifants River Estuary. You’ll also see the remains of old reed-and-mud fisherman’s homes, a humble little church clinging to the hillside and archaeological shell middens—reminding us that humans have been discarding things with style for thousands of years.
In the end, Doringbaai is about doing things that are good for the soul.
Full Moon hikes: ph Tania Fouché 072 1543887.
Photo: Tania Fouché
