Conquer the magic of the crags at Klein Tafelberg.
Wolfgang Güllich’s words will resonate when tackling the climbs smack bang in the rugged embrace of the West Coast Sandveld, ‘Never did I explore life as intensively in its beauty, as while hanging on two fingertips freely over the deep hollow.’
Set about 29 km from Elands Bay, Klein Tafelberg offers seasoned climbers an arena of compact sandstone crags that blend natural beauty with technical challenges. With an evolving playground for trad (traditional) and sport climbing routes, this mountain is a destination that demands respect for both the rock and the wild. Although the stone here lacks the refined quality of the Cederberg’s Wolfberg Cracks, it still possesses a hard, compact allure.
A MOUNTAIN OF TWO HALVES
The climbing terrain is split into two main areas: the Northern Mountain and Southern Mountain, each with its own set of rules and challenges.
Stubborn and sure, the crag’s sandstone offers prime trad climbing on the Northern Mountain, where bolting is strictly forbidden. Only removable gear is permitted, keeping the rock face as pristine as the day it was hewn by time.
By contrast, well-bolted sport routes and adventurous trad lines coexist on the Southern Mountain, offering more variety and the chance to explore freshly minted routes. There’s a mix of vertical walls, cracks and overhangs that challenge both strength and technique. Because the terrain and natural hazards require a good grasp of safety and ethics, climbing here is best suited for experienced climbers.
ROUTES TO TEST YOUR METTLE
Even on established routes, new lines are being added as climbers push the boundaries of the crag’s potential. The Southern Mountain’s routes include standout climbs such as Red Cappuccino (graded 21)—a three-pitch adventure that starts with a tricky move after the second ledge and climbs through a series of ledges and faces.
For something more demanding, The Emperor Penguin’s Pegs (24) presents a bold line with a particularly tricky sequence above an overlap. The climb requires both technical finesse and a careful approach to gear placement. My-T-Chai (24), a direct and sustained route, is a test of endurance, with thin cracks and continuous difficulty that keep climbers engaged from bottom to top.
These climbs, along with many others at the crag, showcase the diverse possibilities of Klein Tafelberg’s sandstone walls. They’re a canvas for climbers who not only enjoy established routes but also seek the thrill of discovering new lines.
NATURE IS FOREMOST
Nature maintains its dominion at Klein Tafelberg. The regal Verreaux’s eagle has its nest on the South Eastern buttress. Marked in red on the map, the area is strictly off-limits. This is a reminder that at Klein Tafelberg, man is merely a guest.
Climbers are also encouraged to minimise their impact on the crag: don’t remove or alter any natural features, keep to established paths and avoid actions that might damage the fragile ecosystem.
A YEAR-ROUND AFFAIR
Although climbing here can be done throughout the year, the changing seasons require different preparations. Hot and dry summers demand plenty water and sunscreen. Winters with below-zero temperatures and icy winds mean adequate cold weather and windproof gear.
Klein Tafelberg is not just a climbing destination where you engage with rocks in a way that feels profoundly personal, but a journey into a raw and untamed landscape. And the rewards lie in both the climbs completed and the stories forged along the way.
Rate: Day visitors R80 pp; book: bookings@kleintafelberg.co.za; WhatsApp: 067 1066549. Accommodation available.
