What unexpected refinement and splendour are to be found in Koringberg at Marrian George Hotel’s MG Canteen. Ensconced within the original Wildehurst wine cellar, the beautifully decorated restaurant revisits British culinary traditions with a light hand and a worldly eye. The result is elegant yet comforting dishes.
Although the à la carte offering shifts with the seasons, the cooking remains steadfast and flavour-forward while applauding freshness and provenance. Much of what lands on your plate originates just meters from the kitchen—veggies from the on-site garden, eggs from the hotel’s own flock and butter churned locally in the village.
The starters are a study in balance. A chicken liver parfait is silk on the tongue, its richness cut beautifully by pickled dill gherkins and a delicate apricot jam. And the anything but ordinary roasted vegetable soup is a deeply flavoured, creamy blend best enjoyed with the accompanying slab of warm sourdough.
Among the soulful mains is the slow-braised lamb shank. Paired with ash peas and buttery mash, it’s as indulgent as it’s comforting. Executed with finesse, the kingklip is served on a smoky chorizo risotto with a lemon-garlic emulsion which lifts the dish into something rather special.
End with a slice of nostalgia: S’mores cake is unabashedly sinful. Or have a scoop of mango sorbet—tart and clean on the palate.
MG Canteen offers a welcome pause and a genteel celebration of thoughtful, generous cooking.
Where: 1 Main Rd, Koringberg. Bookings essential: dine@marriangeorge.co.za; 066 3015825.
