More than just another restaurant with a view, The Jetty in Doringbaai is perched so close to the Atlantic you half expect your wine glass to fog with sea spray. The setting is inimitably West Coast: raw horizon, a bleached jetty and the constant grumble of surf.
A confident menu always wins the day. Pork Crackling lands first. The crisps of salt and fat shatter pleasingly amid the pert apple sauce that doesn’t try to be clever. Or go for Perlemoen (abalone, if you must) dressed with Vietnamese zing and citrus. It’s a coastal reverie so delicate it could evaporate.
Then for mains: Steamed Mussels in a sauce that refuses to be one note—white wine, sour cream and herbs doing the coastal boogie. It’s served with roosterkoek so griddled it should come with a warning. You’ll want to mop. You’ll want more.
Butternut Wellington is a quiet coup. Flaky pastry, earthy mushroom duxelles, lentils and the gentle sweetness of squash all playing their part without squabbling. And the rooibos balsamic reduction is a thesis on how to finish a dish.
Tops among the dessert options is a Rooibos Crème Brûlée that knows exactly what it’s doing. The custard hums with the depth of the tea, the caramel top splinters agreeably and the orange-zest whipped cream whispers.
Fryer’s Cove’s The Jetty Restaurant is indeed salty, sweet and will sear into your memory.
Bookings: 076 2904372; Portion 1 of the Old Fish Factory, 1 Quality St, Hours: Mon–Sun 10h00-18h00.
